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Кольт 1911

Colt 1911

Кольт 1911 / Colt 1911
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Издание: Paper Manufacturing
Масштаб: 1:1
Страниц: 7+7 (2 варианта)
Формат: PNG+JPG
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Инструкция по сборке

The pistol consists of 4 components: The frame, the slide, the barrel, and the magazine.

There are two versions: Classic and Modernized.

It's possible, of course, to mix and match parts. You can take, for example, the slide (pg 1&2) from the Modernized version and put them on a Classic frame. Or you can open up these files in an image editor and cut & paste parts from one to the other, to create the configuration you prefer.

List of Modernized features:

Slide and barrel

The first two pages are devoted to the slide, which is rather complex, as the sides and top are all separate boxes. The result is pretty sturdy and has some thickness to it. There are grooves at the bottom, to accommodate the guide rails on the frame. The outside of the slide consists of separate external faces. This is necessary to give some depth to the serrations, and to cover up any deformities or blemishes on the underlying parts that might appear during construction. Although it's intensive, assembly of the slide is pretty straightforward and intuitive, as long as you remember that the colored sides on pg.1 go on the inside of the slide, not the outside.

The barrel and other parts inside it, however, are rather tricky. These are the steps for adding the barrel and other internal components inside the slide:

  1. First, you have to assemble all the parts on pg.3 (except for the guide rails, which are part of the frame and can therefore be done later).
  2. Then, insert the barrel bushing into the slide halfway, and insert the barrel through it.
  3. The "barrel bottom" (barrel link), which is the component that the slide stop pin goes through, can only be attached now. Attach the barrel bottom to the barrel, being careful not to get any glue on the slide. The barrel is supposed to move within the slide, and you don't want the two to get stuck together.
  4. Attach the "spring guide," a small cylinder, protruding from it, parallel to the barrel.
  5. Next, insert the "spring front cap" (recoil spring plug) into the front of the slide and glue it in place.
  6. It's possible to insert an actual spring at this point (provided everything is dry), but only if you can find one that's the right size and one that's weak enough not to bend the paper.
  7. Finally, glue the barrel bushing in place.

At this point, we will have a completed slide with a moveable barrel inside it.

The barrel cannot be removed from the slide, but that's ok, because making it removable, as originally planned, would have introduced a lot of other problems.


The frame consists of two sides, with various smaller parts sandwiched in between them. It's preferable to build all the little components on pages 4 through 7 and then glue them together, because some things, like the hammer, need to be placed on the inside before the two sides are put together. I think the instructional images are pretty comprehensive and straightforward, so they don't really need much description.

The trickiest part here is constructing the right and left walls of the frame. It's tempting to finish gluing each component, but, once you cut out and start folding the "Right Wall of Frame," do not glue the inside panels into place! First, it's necessary to attach the side walls, then the inside edge of the magwell window, then the inside wall of the magwell itself. Otherwise, you will have a hard time sticking these parts into place.

The little parts that go on either side of the trigger are a little difficult to orient properly. Just remember that they're supposed to be at an angle, and that they should be curved at the same time. If you can avoid leaving white space on either side, you're doing it right.

Once you have the two side walls of the frame complete, note that there are three structural elements on Pg.6 that go directly between them: The "Center of Frame," the little "Frame Floor" that goes right in front of it, and the "Back of Magwell." Once you've put them between the two sides of the frame, and you have a symmetrical frame to work with, you may attach the remaining parts in any order:

External Frame elements: The front of the magwell and the "floor" of the frame (the part under the slide, whether it's smooth or railed) are pretty straightforward, as are the trigger guard and trigger.

Moving Parts: Align the hammer (Pg.7) with the uppermost hole and put the hammer pin through it. Then align the grip safety (Pg.6) with the other adjacent hole and put the thumb safety axle (Pg.5) through it, with the thumb safety on the left. Flipping it up should engage it with a triangular notch in the slide.

The takedown latch axle (Pg.5) goes through the takedown hole, which is aligned with the "barrel bottom." This is the part that keeps the barrel and slide attached to the frame. Remove it to remove the slide+barrel.

Final Touches: The Plunger Tube (Pg.5) goes horizontally along the left side of the frame. The grips (brown or black) are pretty straightforward. The colored part overlaps slightly. Don't trim it, just attach the whole thing to the frame, so it completely covers up Fthe hatched section.


First, make the follower. This is a litle box that constitutes the main structural support for the magazine. Then, make a cartridge and put it on top of the follower, as close to the front as possible. Cut out the main face of the magazine and glue the follower inside it, in such a way that the front (top) tip of the follower matches up to the "\_/" lowest section in the top center of the magazine face. Then, wrap it around and glue it shut. Attach the floorplate to the bottom.

Источник: http://laras-paper.com/news/colt_1911_paper_manufacturing/2018-09-29-6558

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