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Ray O'Bannon

Тёмное обещание

The Dark Promise

Тёмное обещание / The Dark Promise
Автор: Ray O'Bannon
Издание: RavensBlight
Масштаб: ?
Страниц: 22/9
Формат: PDF
Размер: 7.5 Мб

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Описание

Ever daydream of being a pirate? Does the notion of setting sail for the East Indies (and plundering any ships you meet along the way) bring a smile? If so, then this paper model should make your inner buccaneer very happy. The Dark Promise features ominous black sails, gold plated hardware and a nice bright red stripe (said to be painted in human blood).

Read the grim and frightful history of the Dark Promise:

The Grim and Frightful History of The Dark Promise

Edmond Filch, the son of an English business tycoon, moved to America in the year 1694, hoping to establish himself in business rather than rely upon his family's wealth. Settling in Boston, he founded an iron mill and later a woodworking company specializing in wagons and carriages.

Eager to celebrate their son's success, Edmond's parents and younger sister boarded the Lilian Sue, an English passenger vessel, and set sail for America in the Spring of 1703. Edmond took up lodgings near Boston Harbor and prepared a cottage for his family's use during their three month visit.

But Edmond's family never arrived. A telegram notified Edmond that the Lilian Sue had been attacked by pirates. Naval warships witnessed the sinking of the Lilian Sue but were immediately engaged in combat with the pirate vessel, leaving them unable to save any of the Lilian Sue passengers or crew.

For the next three years, Edmond Filch's iron mill and woodworking company were directed to complete a single project… the construction of a tall ship. During this time, Edmond Filch lived a very isolated life with little outside contact. He was known to have studied seamanship and stellar navigation. Local rumors suggested he was also studying various occult subjects and rituals.

Those who knew Edmond Filch began to speak in alarm of his change in character since the sinking of the Lilian Sue. Although still in his mid thirties, Edmond Filch now seemed far older. His lined face had taken on a harsh look, his voice rough and stern. His speech patterns were now quite vulgar. It was realized he had taught himself fencing when he impaled a man with his walking stick in the Fall of 1705.

In the Summer of 1706, the Dark Promise set sail from Boston Harbor. The ship was said to be unlike anything previously built, partly due to it's size but also due to it's unusual characteristics. It's sails were dyed an ominous black. The hull and decks were painted black as well, and the ship featured golden trim and hardware. Even the tips of it's twenty six cannons were gold plated. Apparently, Edmond Filch had spent his entire family's wealth in the ship's construction.

The crew of the Dark Promise was equally unusual. Captain Filch had bargained for the freedom of sixty seven convicted men, all sailors and all charged with murder. Local authorities were surprised when these men boarded ship quietly and without incident. The crewmen seemed oddly subservient to Captain Filch, as though they feared him.

One crewman, when asked about the ship's destination, reportedly responded We'd be off to sink pirates.

For the next thirty years, the Dark Promise traveled the high seas, hunting and destroying pirate vessels. It was noted that pirates would often hesitate to fire upon the Dark Promise because of it's golden parts. The pirates were too greedy to readily sacrifice such treasure, and thus Captain Filch was able to use the pirate's own greed against them.

Captain Filch also often took advantage of his ship's black sails to sneak up on his targets at night. The crew of the Dark Promise would then sneak aboard quietly, killing as many pirates as possible in their sleep. Any surviving pirates were soon dealt with, as Captain Filch's crew were said to be among the most barbaric and bloodthirsty savages to ever set sail.

It's difficult to determine the actual number of pirate ships sunk by the Dark Promise, but details from the ship's infrequent supply stops provide a clue…

When the Dark Promise made port in England in the Summer of 1708, four golden skulls adorned the aft railing. These were said to be the skulls of pirate captains whose ships the Dark Promise had sunk. Captain Filch had ordered the skulls to be plated with the pirate's own gold. The Dark Promise also now featured a bright red stripe, rumored to be painted with pirate blood.

In the Spring of 1713, the ship took on supplies in Bristol Harbor. It was noticed that several additional skulls had been hung from short ropes along the ship's quarter deck railings.

The Dark Promise was next reported in South Africa in the Fall of 1722. Skulls now dangled from short ropes along most of the ships rails.

In 1736, a port in the Pacific Islands reported the Dark Promise making port but taking on very few supplies. At this time, the hull was completely trimmed in golden skulls.

Since the Dark Promise is recorded to have made so few ports of call, it must be assumed the ship took on supplies at various other undocumented locations. There are, of course, rumors that Captain Filch's occult studies enabled him to remain at sea for extended periods by manipulating time, but these notions are difficult to take seriously.

Or rather, they would be if we didn't know the following: A tall ship from the 18th century recently made port in a small fishing village along the coast of Sweden. The captain was reportedly a stern, angry man with unusually vulgar speech. The ship featured black sails and was trimmed with golden skulls and a bright red stripe.

The vessel took on supplies and set sail. It's current location is unknown.

Инструкция по сборке

NOTE: Pages 1 through 6 should be printed on heavy card stock. Pages 7 through 12 can be printed on regular paper.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED: Five bamboo skewers (kabob sticks), five toothpicks, a needle, scissors, Elmer's glue (or a glue stick) and a ruler or other straight-edge. A black marker and black thread are optional. The bamboo skewers should be available at local grocery store. They usually come in a bag of 100, and are a little under ten inches long. If you can't find these, chopsticks or something similar might work.

FOLDING TIP: It's helpful to 'score' the fold lines before folding. You can use an old ink pen, a knitting needle, the end of a paper clip, or any metal object that will crease the paper without tearing it. Scoring helps you fold more precisely and also makes the project much faster to assemble.

NOTE: When the instructions say to punch a hole, there should be three steps. First, use the needle to punch a small hole, then slide a toothpick through the hole to enlarge it, and finish by sliding a bamboo skewer through the hole. You may find it helpful to twist the skewer as you push it through.

ASSEMBLY: We'll need four skewers for the model. Cut the fifth skewer in half, we'll use it and one of the toothpicks as paper punches. Cut out the DECK PLATE on Parts Page 1. Carefully punch the three red dots. Don't fold anywhere, the blue lines are for later. Next, cut out the LOWER BRACE on Parts Page 1. Fold panel 1 UPWARD, fold panel 2 DOWNWARD, fold panel 3 DOWNWARD, fold panel 4 UPWARD, fold panel 5 UPWARD, fold panel 6 DOWNWARD, fold panel 7 DOWNWARD, fold panel 8 UPWARD, fold panel 9 UPWARD, fold panel 10 DOWNWARD, fold panel 11 DOWNWARD, and fold panel 12 UPWARD. Punch the red dot in panel 7. Glue panels 1, 5, 9 and 13 to the DECK PLATE, lining them up with the blue lines. The connected pieces should resemble Figure 1.

Now cut out the MAST BRACE on Parts Page 1. Fold panels 6B and 8B both DOWNWARD. Glue panels 6B and 8B to panels 6 and 8 on the LOWER BRACE, as shown in Figure 2. (You can place a skewer behind panels 6 and 8 when gluing so there's something to press against.)

Next, cut out the LOWER STARBOARD HULL and the LOWER PORT HULL on Parts Page 1. Both lower hull pieces have a triangular tab marked with a red pointer. For each piece: cut along one side of the triangular tab marked with the red pointer, as shown in Figure 3, and then bend that tab DOWNWARD. Next, bend all remaining tabs DOWNWARD. Fold DOWNWARD along the three blue lines (indicated with green pointers) and then fold DOWNWARD along the center line (indicated with a green pointer). The front tab on the LOWER STARBOARD HULL should be glued to the back of the forward panel on the LOWER PORT HULL, as shown in Figure 4.

With the DECK PLATE upright (the LOWER BRACE should be on the bottom), glue the upper tabs on the LOWER HULL pieces to the top of the DECK PLATE, as shown in Figure 5. Start at the front and work towards the back. It's OK if the LOWER HULL pieces extend slightly past the back of the DECK PLATE. Now glue the three lower triangular tabs on the LOWER HULL to the back of the adjacent panels.

Cut out the UPPER STARBOARD HULL and the UPPER PORT HULL on Parts Page 2. The front tab on the UPPER STARBOARD HULL should be folded DOWNWARD. Then for both upper hull pieces, fold DOWNWARD along the three blue lines indicated with green pointers. Glue the front tab on the UPPER STARBOARD HULL to the back of the forward panel on the UPPER PORT HULL, as shown in Figure 6. Punch the red dot on the seam between the two pieces. Glue the bottom portion of the UPPER HULL directly over the matching panels on the LOWER HULL as shown in Figure 7.

Now cut out the AFT SECTION on Parts Page 2. Fold all four tabs DOWNWARD. Fold the upper panel DOWNWARD and the lower panel UPWARD as shown in Figure 8. Glue the four AFT SECTION tabs to the inside of the aft (rear) panels on the hull as shown in Figure 9.

Next, cut out the DECK on Parts Page 3. Punch the three red dots. Fold all fifteen rail panels UPWARD. Then fold the forecastle panel DOWNWARD, fold the forecastle doors panel UPWARD, fold the main deck panel UPWARD, fold the quarter deck doors panel DOWNWARD, fold the quarter deck panel UPWARD and then fold the poop deck doors panel DOWNWARD.

Position the DECK inside the hull as shown in Figure 10. Glue the DECK rail panels to the inside of the hull's rails. This is probably the most difficult part of the whole project so work slowly and just glue a few panels at a time. When finished, trim with scissors if needed. You can use a black marker to darken any remaining white spaces or edges. If the hull turns out crooked or warped, slide a toothpick between the rail panels and the hull to separate them, reposition the panels and glue them back together.

Cut out the FOREPEAK on Parts Page 2. Fold the two halves together, creasing along the center line, and then flatten the piece back out and fold the outer panels UPWARD, folding where shown in Figure 11. Glue the two inner panels together as shown in Figure 12. Cut out the FOREPEAK DECK and fold both black panels UPWARD. Place the FOREPEAK DECK inside the FOREPEAK as shown in Figure 13. Be sure the deck is as far forward as possible, with the top of the black panels close to the top edges of the FOREPEAK. Glue the black panels to the inside of the FOREPEAK. If you wish, you can use a black marker to darken the rest of the inside area of the FOREPEAK (but leave about a quarter of an inch blank on either side for the FOREPEAK to connect to the hull). Position the ends of the FOREPEAK over the black areas on the front of the hull, as shown in Figure 14. Glue the FOREPEAK to the black areas on the hull. (Note: the forepeak deck doesn't need to touch the hull.)

Cut out the RUDDER on Parts Page 2. Fold the two outer panels UPWARD where indicated with the green pointers, and then fold DOWNWARD along the center line. Glue the two inner panels together and trim if needed. Then glue the two outer panels to the lower part on the AFT SECTION as shown in Figure 15. The RUDDER should cover the green line on the AFT SECTION.

Now cut out the FLAG BRACE on Parts Page 2. Fold DOWNWARD along the center line and then fold the two outer panels UPWARD. Glue the two outer panels to the AFT SECTION as shown in Figure 16. Do NOT glue the two inner panels together (we'll be adding a flag pole later).

Next, cut out the SHIP'S WHEEL on Parts Page 3. Fold DOWNWARD where indicated with the green pointer and glue the folded section to the back of the piece. Trim if needed. Position the SHIP'S WHEEL piece directly over the quarter deck doors as shown in Figure 17 and glue in place. The quarter deck should now have a tiny ship's wheel.

Now it's time to decide how much additional trim (if any) you'd like to add to the hull. To add trim, cut out the GOLDEN SKULL TRIM or HANGING SKULL TRIM pieces on Parts Page 4. Glue the TRIM pieces to the hull as shown in Figure 18.

The final step in completing your ship's hull will be to add the cannon hatches. These hinged hatches mounted above the cannons will make your model look much more realistic. HOWEVER...you may want to set them aside for now and wait until the rest of the model is nearly finished before adding them, since they make the hull a bit harder to handle.

To assemble the cannon hatches: cut out the CANNONS on Parts Page 3 but don't separate the individual pieces yet. Fold the row of cannons UPWARD and then fold the outside row of wooden panels DOWNWARD, folding where indicated with the green arrows. Glue the two rows of wooden panels together. Now separate all 18 cannons, cutting along the black lines. (The first three cuts are indicated with red pointers.) The individual cannons should resemble Figure 19. Glue the cannons directly over the cannons printed on the hull. They should be positioned so the hatch is attached at the top, as shown in Figure 20.

Your ship's hull is now completed. Next we'll be adding the masts, rigging and sails.

For the MAIN MAST, use a bamboo skewer. It should be a little under 10 inches long with a point at one end. Proper mounting of the MAIN MAST is shown in the center of Figure 21. With the skewer's point UPWARD, push the flat end of the skewer through the hole on the main deck (shown in green), through the deck plate (shown in blue), and through the lower brace(shown in purple). The MAIN MAST should rest on the mast brace (shown in black).

For the FORE MAST, cut an inch off the flat end of a skewer. Proper mounting of the FORE MAST is shown on the left side of Figure 21. With the skewer's point UPWARD, push the flat end of the skewer through the hole on the forecastle (shown in green), and through the deck plate (shown in blue). The FORE MAST should rest on the lower brace (shown in purple).

For the MIZZEN MAST, cut an inch off the flat end of a skewer. Proper mounting of the MIZZEN MAST is shown on the right side of Figure 21. With the skewer's point UPWARD, push the flat end of the skewer through the hole on the quarter deck (shown in green), and through the deck plate (shown in blue). The MIZZEN MAST should rest on the lower brace (shown in purple).

For the BOWSPRIT, Cut a skewer so it's about three and a half inches long (with a pointed end). Put a mark on the skewer half an inch from the flat end. Insert the flat end of the skewer into the hole in the front of the upper hull, stopping at the half inch mark. Cut out the ROPE on Parts Page 3. Fold the ROPE along its center line and place it over the BOWSPRIT as shown in Figure 22. Glue one side of the ROPE to the port side on the forepeak (the left side), position the BOWSPRIT properly (it should rest on the end of the forepeak), and then glue the remaining side of the ROPE to the starboard side of the forepeak (the right side). Your masts are complete. If you want, you can remove the masts, paint them black with a marker or paint, and then return them to the model. Don't worry if the masts don't stand upright yet, the rigging will hold them in position. We're now ready to add rigging and sails.

HELPFUL TERMINOLOGY: 'Shrouds' are the thick ropes going vertically to a mast. 'Ratlines' are the thinner horizontal lines. The groups of pulleys are called 'Chain Plates'. The horizontal platforms on a mast are called Tops" or 'Fighting Tops' (not 'Crow's Nests") but to avoid confusion while building this model, we'll refer to the Tops" as simply 'wooden panels'. Crossbeams on a mast, from which sails are hung, is called 'Yards". On the SPANKER, the top beam is called a 'Gaff" and the bottom beam is called a 'Boom".

Cut out the MAIN SHROUDS on Parts Page 5. For each of the two corners indicated with a red pointer, cut from the corner to the center line of the shroud panels, cutting along the side of the blank center panel, as shown in Figure 23. Fold the shroud panels without chain plates DOWNWARD and glue them to the back of the opposite shroud panels with chain plates. Fold the wooden panel DOWNWARD and glue it to the back of the blank panel. Trim the entire piece if needed. Now punch the white dot in the center of the wooden panel. With the blank panel facing UP, fold the two shroud panels DOWNWARD. Carefully slide the MAIN SHROUDS onto the MAIN MAST and position them as shown in Figure 24. Be careful not to push the MAIN MAST through the MAST BRACE. Glue the MAIN SHROUDS chain plates directly over the chain plates printed on the ship's outside railing.

Next, cut out the FORE SHROUDS on Parts Page 5. Cut, punch and assemble this piece in the same manner as the MAIN SHROUDS. Slide the assembled FORE SHROUDS piece onto the FORE MAST and position them as shown in Figure 25. Be careful not to push the FORE MAST through the LOWER BRACE. Glue the FORE SHROUDS chain plates directly over the chain plates printed on the ship's outside railing. It's OK if the fore shrouds are slightly bowed or curved when finished (you can bend the chain plates inward slightly to lessen the tension if you need to).

Next, we need to add the SPANKER sail. Cut out the SPANKER on Parts Page 10, cutting along the outer black lines (this doesn't have to be very precise). Then carefully fold along the green center line (this needs to be VERY precise). Fold and glue the two sides together. Carefully cut out the sail and trim as needed. Fold the square wooden panel and the rounded wooden panel both UPWARD. Punch both wooden panels so they can be added to the MIZZEN MAST. Notice in Figure 26 that the SPANKER needs to be curved away from the mast. Curve the SPANKER (but not the square wooden panel or the rounded wooden panel) over a marker, glue stick or something similar, so the sail has a slight curve as shown in Figure 26. Then carefully slide the SPANKER onto the MIZZEN MAST as shown in Figure 26, with the square panel on top and the rounded panel on the bottom. Be careful not to push the MIZZEN MAST through the LOWER BRACE.

Now cut out the MIZZEN SHROUDS on Parts Page 6. Cut, punch and assemble this piece in the same manner as the MAIN SHROUDS. Slide the assembled MIZZON SHROUDS onto the MIZZON MAST and down over the SPANKER as shown in Figure 27. Glue the MIZZON SHROUDS chain plates directly over the chain plates printed on the ship's outside railing. Slide the square panel on the SPANKER up until it meets the wooden panel on the MIZZEN SHROUDS. (You can glue these two panels together if needed.)

Cut out the MAIN SAIL on Parts Page 7, cutting along the outer black lines (this doesn't have to be very precise). Then carefully fold along the green center line (this needs to be VERY precise). Fold and glue the two sides together. Carefully cut out the sail and trim as needed. Curve the MAIN SAIL (but not the wooden panel) over a marker, glue stick or something similar, so the sail has a slight curve as shown in Figure 28. Punch the white dot in the wooden panel and then fold the wooden panel DOWNWARD. Carefully slide the MAIN SAIL onto the MAIN MAST as shown in Figure 28. Glue the MAIN SAIL'S wooden panel to the blank panel on the MAIN SHROUDS.

Next, cut out the FORE SAIL on Parts Page 9. Cut out and assemble the FORE SAIL in the same manner as the MAIN SAIL. Slide the FORE SAIL onto the FORE MAST and glue the FORE MAST'S wooden panel to the blank panel on the FORE SHROUDS.

Now cut out the MAIN TOP SHROUDS on Parts Page 5. For each of the two corners indicated with a red pointer, cut from the corner to the center line of the shroud panels, cutting along the side of the wooden center panel as shown in Figure 29. Fold the shroud panels with wooden tabs DOWNWARD and glue them to the back of the opposite shroud panels without wooden tabs. Trim the entire piece if needed. Now punch the white dot in the wooden center panel. With the wooden center panel facing UP, fold the two small outer wooden tabs DOWNWARD and then fold the two shroud panels UPWARD. With the wooden center panel on the MAIN TOP SHROUDS still facing UP, carefully slide the MAIN TOP SHROUDS onto the MAIN MAST and position them as shown in Figure 30. Glue the wooden center panel on the MAIN TOP SHROUDS to the MAIN SAIL'S wooden panel.

Cut out the MAIN TOP SAIL on Parts Page 8. Assemble the MAIN TOP SAIL in the same manner as the MAIN SAIL. Carefully slide the MAIN TOP SAIL onto the MAIN MAST. The wooden tabs on the MAIN TOP SHROUDS should be placed on either side of the mast, as shown in Figure 31 (with the front edge of the shrouds lined up with the front edge of the mast). Slide the MAIN TOP SAIL down until the wooden tabs on the MAIN TOP SHROUDS can be glued to the bottom of the wooden panel on the MAIN TOP SAIL as shown in FIGURE 31 and Figure 32.

Cut out the FORE TOP SHROUDS on Parts Page 5. Assemble the FORE TOP SHROUDS in the same manner as the MAIN TOP SHROUDS. With the wooden panel on the FORE TOP SHROUDS facing UP, slide the FORE TOP SHROUDS onto the FORE MAST and glue the wooden center panel on the FORE TOP SHROUDS to the FORE SAIL'S wooden panel.

Next, cut out the FORE TOP SAIL on Part Page 9. Assemble the FORE TOP SAIL in the same manner as the MAIN SAIL. Slide the FORE TOP SAIL onto the FORE MAST and glue the wooden tabs on the FOR TOP SHROUDS to the bottom of the wooden panel on the FORE TOP SAIL.

Now cut out the MIZZEN TOP SHROUDS on Parts Page 6. Assemble the MIZZEN TOP SHROUDS in the same manner as the MAIN TOP SHROUDS. With the wooden panel on the MIZZON TOP SHROUDS facing UP, slide the MIZZON TOP SHROUDS onto the MIZZEN MAST and glue the wooden center panel on the MIZZEN TOP SHROUDS to the blank panel on the MIZZEN SHROUDS.

Next, cut out the MIZZON TOP SAIL on Part Page 11. Assemble the MIZZEN TOP SAIL in the same manner as the MAIN SAIL. Slide the MIZZEN TOP SAIL onto the MIZZON MAST and glue the wooden tabs on the MIZZEN TOP SHROUDS to the bottom of the wooden panel on the MIZZEN TOP SAIL.

Cut out the MAIN TOP GALLANT SHROUDS on Parts Page 5. Assemble the MAIN TOP GALLANT SHROUDS in the same manner as the MAIN TOP SHROUDS. With the wooden center panel on the MAIN TOP GALLANT SHROUDS facing UP, slide the MAIN TOP GALLANT SHROUDS onto the MAIN MAST and glue the wooden center panel on the MAIN TOP GALLANT SHROUDS to the wooden panel on the MAIN TOP SAIL.

Next, cut out the MAIN TOP GALLANT SAIL on Parts Page 8. Assemble the MAIN TOP GALLANT SAIL in the same manner as the MAIN SAIL. Slide the MAIN TOP GALLANT SAIL onto the MAIN MAST and glue the wooden tabs on the MAIN TOP GALLANT SHROUDS to the bottom of the wooden panel on the MAIN TOP GALLANT SAIL. Trim if needed.

Cut out the FORE TOP GALLANT SHROUDS on Parts Page 6. Assemble the FORE TOP GALLANT SHROUDS in the same manner as the MAIN TOP SHROUDS. With the wooden center panel on the FORE TOP GALLANT SHROUDS facing UP, slide the FORE TOP GALLANT SHROUDS onto the FORE MAST and glue the wooden center panel on the FORE TOP GALLANT SHROUDS to the wooden panel on the FORE TOP SAIL.

Now cut out the FORE TOP GALLANT SAIL on Part Page 10. Assemble the FORE TOP GALLANT SAIL in the same manner as the MAIN SAIL. Slide the FORE TOP GALLANT SAIL onto the FORE MAST and glue the wooden tabs on the FORE TOP GALLANT SHROUDS to the bottom of the wooden panel on the FORE TOP GALLANT SAIL.

Cut out the MIZZON TOP GALLANT SHROUDS on Parts Page 6. Assemble the MIZZEN TOP GALLANT SHROUDS in the same manner as the MAIN TOP SHROUDS. With the wooden center panel on the MIZZEN TOP GALLANT SHROUDS facing UP, slide the MIZZEN TOP GALLANT SHROUDS onto the MIZZEN MAST and glue the wooden center panel on the MIZZEN TOP GALLANT SHROUDS to the wooden panel on the MIZZEN TOP SAIL.

Next, cut out the MIZZON TOP GALLANT SAIL on Part Page 11. Assemble the MIZZEN TOP GALLANT SAIL in the same manner as the MAIN SAIL. Slide the MIZZEN TOP GALLANT SAIL onto the MIZZEN MAST and glue the wooden tabs on the MIZZEN TOP GALLANT SHROUDS to the bottom of the wooden panel on the MIZZEN TOP GALLANT SAIL.

Your model should now resemble Figure 33, with three sails on each mast. Next we'll add sails to the front of the ship.

Cut out the SPRIT SAIL on Parts Page 12. Assemble the SPRIT SAIL in the same manner as the MAIN SAIL (except that the rounded wooden panel should be folded upward and then returned to a nearly flat position). Slide the SPRIT SAIL's rounded wooden panel onto the BOWSPRIT and gently push the SPRIT SAIL until it rests against the tip of the FOREPEAK as shown in Figure 34.

All of the square sails are now complete. Next comes the STAY SAIL.

Cut out the STAY SAIL on Parts Page 12, cutting along the outer black lines (this doesn't have to be very precise). Then carefully fold along the green center line (this needs to be VERY precise). Fold and glue the two sides together. Carefully cut out the sail and trim as needed. Line up the STAY SAIL's longest edge with a marker (or glue stick or something similar) and curve the STAY SAIL over the marker so the sail has a slight curve.

Cut out SAIL BRACE A and SAIL BRACE B on Parts Page 12. For each SAIL BRACE: fold the rectangular panel and the outer triangular panel both UPWARD, folding along the lines indicated in Figure 35. Glue the outer triangular panels on SAIL BRACE A and SAIL BRACE B to the top point of the STAY SAIL, one brace on each side, as shown in Figure 36 (shown on light canvas for clarity). Curve the two rectangular panels over a marker and then place them at the center of the FORE TOP SAIL as shown in Figure 37. Move the rectangular panels up or down until the lower point of the STAY SAIL is near the BOWSPRIT, and then glue the two rectangular panels to the FORE TOP SAIL. To attach the STAY SAIL to the BOWSPRIT, cut out SAIL BRACE C on Parts Page 12. Curve SAIL BRACE C around the BOWSPRIT and glue SAIL BRACE C to the bottom part of the STAY SAIL, gluing half of SAIL BRACE C to each side of the STAY SAIL, as shown in Figure 38.

If you don't want to use thread for this model, you can now call the sails finished and proceed to assembling the FLAGS. However, if you want to use some thread, here's how to add another sail: Cut out the JIB SAIL on Parts Page 12, cutting along the outer black lines (this doesn't have to be very precise). Then carefully fold along the green center line (this needs to be VERY precise). Fold the two sides together and cut out the sail but DO NOT glue the two sides together yet. Place a length of black thread inside the sail, along the fold, with about a foot of thread extending beyond both ends of the sail. Now glue the two sides of the JIB SAIL together. Curve the JIB SAIL in the same manner as the STAY SAIL. Now tie the JIB SAIL'S top line to the top of the FORE MAST and then tie the JIB SAIL'S bottom line to the BOWSPRIT as shown in Figure 39. The rear point of the JIB SAIL should rest against the STAY SAIL.

If you'd like to add a bit more thread to make the rigging look a bit more complex, here's how: Start with a couple of feet of thread and tie one end to the top of the FORE MAST. Connect this line to the top of the MAIN MAST, then to the top of the MIZZEN MAST and finally to the end of the gaff on the SPANKER, as shown (in red) in Figure 40.

If you haven't already added the CANNON hatches, now is a good time to do so (since most of the handling of the hull is finished).

All that now remains is to add a flag to each of the three MASTS and the AFT SECTION. Cut out the four FLAGS on Parts Page 12. Cut off all three MASTS about half an inch above the TOP GALLANT SAIL. Spread glue on the back of each flag and wrap it around a toothpick. Trim as needed. The flags can now be curved back and forth around a skewer so they're curved like the one in Figure 41. For each flag: Shorten the toothpick to about two inches long. The three MASTS should have two banners and one pirate's flag. For these three flags, place some glue on the front of each MAST and place a toothpick in position in front of the MAST as shown in Figure 42 (shown on unpainted wood for clarity). Hold the toothpick for a minute so the glue can dry, then carefully remove your fingers so you don't pull the toothpick back off the MAST. Use thread to tie each toothpick to the mast in two places, as shown in Figure 42.

The final pirate's flag will go on the AFT SECTION. Poke the pointed end of a toothpick (the one we've been using for a punch will work fine) between the two triangular FLAG BRACE panels to separate them a little. Then insert the flat end of the flag pole as shown in Figure 43 and glue the flag pole in place.

And that's everything. Congratulations! You're now Captain of the DARK PROMISE.


Источник: http://ravensblight.com/DarkPromise.html

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